Finding balance in Xi’an

After Pingyao, we arrived in Xi’an, one of the most historic cities in all of China. Once the starting point of the Silk Road and the capital of several dynasties, the city carries thousands of years of stories. It feels alive with history – but traveling here with children adds another layer: how do we balance sightseeing, learning, and simply being a family?

Why we skipped the Terracotta Army

Xi’an is best known for the Terracotta Army, yet we made the choice not to go. For many, this would be unthinkable. But when you’re traveling with kids, you learn to listen to your family’s needs. The heat was intense, the crowds overwhelming, and even the museum we considered had sold all 30,000 of its daily tickets. Standing in endless queues just didn’t feel like the right use of our energy as a family.

Still, we dove into the stories behind it. Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who united China, began building his mausoleum at age 13. His underground world was guarded by thousands of clay soldiers – but only facing east, because the other directions were “protected” by mountains. He searched his whole life for the elixir of immortality, but likely died from mercury poisoning instead. Reading these stories aloud, even a short walk in the city became a history lesson for the children.

A day at the Wild Goose Pagoda

Instead of the army, we climbed the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, a Buddhist temple more than 1,300 years old. It was built to house scriptures brought from India, and as we walked up the steps together, it felt symbolic – a small family pilgrimage of our own. The kids were tired, but they made it to the top, and the view stretched across both the old and modern parts of Xi’an. It was a good reminder: sometimes what matters is not the “big sight,” but what you do together, side by side.

Family life between the sights

Traveling long-term is not just one highlight after another. The children are starting to long for home. They argue more, seem a little unsettled, and we can feel the strain of being far from what’s familiar. Meals are no longer exciting – noodles for breakfast and dinner every day gets old quickly.

As parents, we knew this moment would come. The shift from “holiday mode” to real life on the road. Our role now is to help Astrid and Hannes find balance again, to give them tools to handle homesickness, and to remind them (and ourselves) that this journey isn’t about constant excitement. It’s about growing together, even in discomfort.

We also feel it ourselves – daily life sneaks in no matter where you are. There’s laundry, tiredness, and the longing for routines. And yet, this is the real adventure: learning how to be a family in the middle of constant movements.

Looking forward

Xi’an gave us history and perspective, but also lessons as parents. We don’t need to see everything to make the journey meaningful. Sometimes the best memories are found in a quiet homestay, or on the climb up an old pagoda with tired but determined children.

Next stop is Chengdu, where work and homeschooling begin. A new rhythm awaits – and with it, new challenges and joys.

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Pingyao, a journey back in time