10. - 12. august

Our next destination on our travels through China was the ancient city of Pingyao. We took the high-speed train for the very first time – and what an experience it was! Racing along at 298 km/h, we were thrilled, both kids and adults alike.

First impressions

Arriving in Pingyao, we were greeted with a very different kind of service than what we had grown used to. We chose a taxi instead of DiDi, and the driver didn’t even step out to say hello, even though we stood there with four large suitcases. We had to load the car ourselves, with not a single “hi” exchanged. A small cultural contrast, but also a reminder that we were truly in a different place.

The city itself outside the wall, felt poorer, more worn down, and rougher around the edges compared to the part of Beijing we had just left behind. But in a way, it was good to see this side of China too.

A city wall of history

Pingyao’s massive city wall towers around ten meters high, with a moat and clever drainage systems designed to prevent flooding inside the city. This ancient invention was created right here, in this very town. For centuries, Pingyao was one of China’s most important cities – it was even home to China’s very first bank! Farmers, merchants, and nobles from across the country came here to deposit their wealth into underground vaults. Legends say that a great dragon guarded the gold and silver, and only the bank’s employees could tame it and pass.

Staying in a traditional courtyard house

We stayed in a traditional hutong-style courtyard house made of stone, wood, and clay. The details were stunning – beautifully carved decorations and red lanterns glowing in the evening. The quiet courtyard felt like an oasis, even though the tourist-filled streets outside was buzzing with energy.

And tourist-filled it was. Traveling in China in August is… intense. We had been warned, but still – the crowds were overwhelming. Walking through the narrow streets sometimes felt more like stepping into a theme park than an authentic old town. Thousands of tourists, both Chinese and foreign, pressed through the alleys. Since the city walls enclosed us, it even created a sense of being “locked in.” Day visitors paid 200 yuan to enter, and since we were staying inside, we were part of the attraction.

Our family room & first meal

Our room turned out to be wonderful – a huge bed nearly four meters wide, big enough for the whole family to sleep together, and a quirky bathroom “capsule” with shower, sink, and toilet all in one plastic cabin. It was both funny and charming.

But after traveling all day, what we really needed was food. We stepped out and asked a local restaurant for their best recommendation. That turned out to be the best decision – we were served a rich, flavorful oxtail soup, a local specialty. It was delicious, and just like that, our mood lifted.

Seeing Pingyao with new eyes

With full bellies and restored energy, we wandered the streets again. Beneath the layers of souvenir shops and dressing-up parlors where young women could be styled as noble ladies of ancient China, we began to notice the true beauty of Pingyao. The old cobblestones, the towers and gates, the temples and courtyards – history was everywhere.

We spent the next day visiting the main sights, reading about the city’s past, and letting ourselves get caught up in its atmosphere. In the evenings, we retreated to our courtyard to play UNO together – a small but perfect ritual.

Beautiful meeting with two young girls dressed up in traditional costumes.

A little surprise

As part of our hotel booking, we were offered a photo shoot in traditional Chinese dress and makeup. Astrid really wanted to try it, and I joined her. It was surprisingly fun, even though the makeup didn’t quite suit my Nordic face. Astrid, on the other hand, looked like a manga character – she loved it.

Final thoughts

After two nights at the Tianzhuyuan Inn, it was time to leave. Our stay in Pingyao was short but memorable. The city is truly worth visiting for its history and atmosphere – but August is not the month we’d recommend. The heat and crowds were overwhelming. Still, Pingyao gave us a glimpse into a very old, very important part of China’s history, and we’re grateful for the experience.

Pingyao, a journey back in time