(NB: A lot of photos in this article)

We took the train from Busan to Seoul. It was a quiet, delicate, smooth, and really comfortable ride. Outside the window, the view kept changing: rice fields, little villages, green mountains, and cities growing taller the closer we got. Korea is such a beautiful country, and we’ve loved seeing it from the train. This was our only train ride here, and now it was time for the capital Seoul. Or “Soul,” as people call it here, which actually fits pretty well.

Seoul is huge. Around 9.6 million people live in the city, and more than 25 million in the larger area. It’s one of the biggest cities in the world old, with Buddhist temples and big churches between skyscrapers, and beautiful cafés squeezed between designer stores, markets and offices.

After so many big cities already, we arrived pretty laid back. We didn’t plan much. We just settle into our rhythm as usual with school, work, food, exploring slowly and see what we discovered along the way.

Hannes preparing a delicious nutritious breakfast for us!

Our neighborhood

We took a taxi to our Airbnb in Gangbuk-gu, a residential area a bit outside the center. Taxi (Kakao T) is cheep, but public transportations is preferable to avoid traffic jams. China still has nr. 1 best metro sytem we´ve experenced so far, though.

Back to our home: The streets were small and packed with life. Scooters flying past, tiny restaurants, people rushing by. It’s not fancy, full of character, and it felt like we were in a real neighborhood where people actually live.

Our apartment, though… was something else. It felt like stepping into a grandmother’s house from the 70s. The bedrooms were bright yellow and alarming green, the closets had old Disney wallpaper, and the duvets were thin polyester with no covers. The kids didn’t have aircon, and the beds were so hard we could’ve slept better on the floor. It wasn’t super clean either — and I’m pretty sure there was a ghost or two wandering around at night.

At five in the morning, a woman outside started sorting bottles and boxes from the bar on the corner and 24/7 we heard a doorbell from the convenience store. The first few nights were rough, but it’s funny how fast you adjust. After a few days, even that became part of the background. The best part was a playground right across the street where the kids could go alone. That little bit of freedom meant a lot to all of us. We had a local super marked, bus stop and metro very close too. perfect place to stay.

We started cooking more at home again. The kids helped grocery shopping and cook, and we learned to make bibimbap. We bought kimchi, doenjang (soybean paste), gochujang (chili paste), and curry sauces. It is so grounding to cook together again after so much eating out. Super delicious breakfasts too, with fresh fruit, smoothies, granola and nuts every day.

Our home is the house behind the blue gate.

The people and everyday life

People in Seoul are fascinating. Everything is spotless; the streets, the subways, even the public toilets. Everyone looks so put-together, like they’ve just stepped out of a washing machine and straight into a commercial. Their shoes are shiny, their clothes are crisp, and somehow they stay that way all day.

They also love brushing their teeth. You see people doing it everywhere; in cafés, offices, and public bathrooms. And there’s literally no body odor anywhere. None. It’s impressive, but it also makes us wonder if maybe it’s all a bit too clean?

Another thing we’ve noticed is how much people like to coordinate their outfits — couples, friends, even whole families walking around in matching clothes. We can’t help but laugh a little. It’s cute, but also… kind of cringe. Hehe.There’s a big focus on looks and behavior. Everyone dresses nicely, moves politely, have good posture, and somehow knows exactly how to behave in every situation. It’s all very orderly. We, on the other hand, are a noisy family with messy hair, backpacks, dirty shoes and children who sometimes forget to whisper, so yeah, we stand out a bit.

In China, people came up to us all the time with curiosity, wanting to talk, take photos, and connect. Here, people are polite, distant and not particularly interested in us. They don’t stare or interact much.

And then there’s the obsession with cuteness. “Kawaii! “ Everything has a cute face; coffee cups, garbage cans, traffic cones. Everyone has keychains, stickers, and cartoon charms hanging from their bags. Crocs are everywhere — on men, women, and kids — often decorated with colorful pins. The clothing style is all about comfort: big sweaters, loose pants, soft fabrics. It’s fun to watch, and we can’t help comparing it to Norway’s “throw on whatever’s clean” vibe.

We find it fascinating, but also realize how much we love Norway’s easygoing messiness. Here everything seems perfectly planned and polished, while back home, people in general don’t really care that much, and that’s kind of nice.

We’ve also noticed that there aren’t many kids around. People work a lot, and family life seems different. With Astrid and Hannes laughing, climbing, and running around, we sometimes feel like the only family in the city.

We wondered about the story behind the lady with a beautiful bouquet.

Green spaces and hiking

One day we visited the Seoul Botanic Park, a huge green oasis with tropical glasshouses and wetlands. It was calm and beautiful. A good break from city life.

We also needed to sort out our luggage before we fly over to Jeju Island, since we had to cut down on checked weight. We went to a shop near a national park to buy a backpack, and since we were there, we went exploring.

We found a playground on the map, way up a hill, and decided to go there. The climb was so steep that we laughed the whole way up. When we arrived, we found out it was part of a military area and only for paying groups! Still, they kindly let us stay for five minutes before pointing us to a nearby hiking trail.

The forest was magical with old trees, moss, wildflowers, the smell of pine and big beautiful mountains surrounding us. It reminded us of home in Oslo, where you can walk straight into the forest from the city. People were hiking barefoot, which we loved seeing and we joined them. Deep in the forest, we found a huge Buddhist temple, all wood and gold and quiet. It was one of those places that just makes you slow down.

The lost phone

That evening, I realized my phone was missing. We checked the map, and of course, it was still at that same playground inside the military area.

Bjarne, our hero, took a taxi back, climbed all the way up the hill, and found locked gates with cameras and barbed wire. He called the number on the sign, but no one answered. So he came back empty-handed.

The next day, Astrid and I tried again. Standing outside the same locked gate. I thought about sneaking in, but maybe not the best idea in front of the Korean military. I called again a last time, and this time a woman finally answered. After almost giving up from English-Korean confusion, she actually came out behind the closed gate! She couldn´t believe me when I told her that my phone was there, but Astrid ran to get it, and we walked home laughing with relief and still battery on my phone, haha.

Everyday adventures

We filled the rest of our days with small adventures. We had girls’ days and boys’ days, and sometimes split up so each of us could get some one-on-one time. We went to a cat café full of purring cats, a Hello Kitty café, and local markets that smelled amazing. We tried new foods, bought skincare, did face masks, and had movie nights with piles of strange (and delicious) Korean candy.

Our last weekend

We had planned this weekend with Ida and Katinka long before the trip even began, so finally meeting them in Seoul felt extra special. We stayed together in a beautiful old hanok house near Gyeongbokgung Palace, right in one of the traditional hanok villages. The house had a little courtyard, wooden beams, and sliding paper doors. We slept on thin mattresses on the heated floor! Surprisingly comfortable and so cozy.

Those days together were just perfect. We ate together, shared wine, talked, and laughed late into the night while the kids hang over Katinka. It felt like family! It meant a lot to share that time with them in such a different corner of the world.

Together we also went to see a drone show in the park! 2,500 drones lighting up the night sky! It was such a fun and impressive sight, and we all stood there like little kids with our mouths open.

It was the perfect ending to our time in Seoul; friends, laughter, and love.

Now we’re packing again, ready for the next chapter; Jeju Island, often called the “Hawaii of Korea.” A volcanic island with waterfalls, beaches, and a slower rhythm that already sounds like a dream.

We really like Korea. The kindness, the beauty, the design, the food, the culture! But we’re also happy we don’t live here. Life here feels so structured and polished, while we’re more of a messy, barefoot family. Still, we’ve loved discovering this part of the country that’s so different from our life, and we’ll remember it forever!

Two weeks in Seoul